Typically this is done using screws and wall plugs, although there are circumstances that you might need a stronger fixing. This is typically the easiest type of wall to make a sound fixing to as it is a strong and solid substrate which will hold your fixing, however there are a few things to watch out for! This is where there is a stone, brick or other type of masonry wall directly under the plaster. Fixing to an Internal Masonry and Plaster Wall There are different techniques for fixing to each type and we will explain them in detail. Dot and Dab walls (sometimes called Drylined).The type of walls below the plaster that you are likely to have to make a fix to include the following: Generally internal walls will be plastered plaster is not suitable for making a fix to (particularly a chemical one without mechanical support), so it is useful to understand what is under the plaster. There is only a relatively limited range of walls that you are likely to have to fix to, and we have a whole section on walls for more details on these. Different Types of Internal Wall to Fix to In this scenario it is generally not possible to use a chemical anchor (adhesive) so here we will be focusing on mechanical fixings, or screws. We are looking at achieving a solid fixing – something sound enough to support a shelf bracket or similar. In this project we will explain about fixing to internal walls and the different types of wall that you might have inside your home and what fixing you should use.īy understanding the principles of the fixing to the different types of internal wall, you will have a better chance of choosing the right solution, or improving the fix if something goes wrong and your initial fix doesn’t hold as well as you would like. Apart from fishing the cables through joists and down walls.There is a huge range of different types of fixing available today and we have a fair few projects on this subject to do the topic justice (which we will link to where appropriate). So long as it doesn't split when I screw on the back boxes (yes, I'll pilot and I splashed out on oak instead of pine) this could be job done. Its now glued and clamped in place behind the 3 studs. Maybe a little persuasion? Sure enough with quite a lot of bashing it eventually snapped into place with only minor damage to the edge of the hole. Whilst pondering this I tried shoving the stick in through one of the double socket holes and it went quite far before getting wedged. I can't reach past the stone without lifting more floorboards and I can't see that going well without spending a very long time cutting nails from below (and I just sistered the accessible ends of the joists so it would be very annoying to suddenly have more access, I'd be compelled to pull it all apart and make the sisters 6" longer). ![]() There's also a big stone jutting out below the stud that prevents me going straight up, I did already know about that. There's a 'dook' on the stud at about back-box height thats preventing me coming in at an angle from the side. ![]() ![]() ![]() Well that didn't go to plan, but it went better than expected.Īrmed with a selection of strip wood from the local DIY place I tried to feed the first piece up behind the skirting board.
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